Members Articles

Making The Plain Stamped Shoe
Author: Richard Hansen

I thought it would be good to start our articles with a simple shoe although the same basic principles apply to this shoe as any other shoe. For this exercise I have used ¾ x 3/8” flat stock.

Measuring: for this stock I will add length and width plus 1 1/2’ for a universal shoe adjusting the measurement to compensate for any work I may put into this shoe for example if I were to make near and off side shoes which I have done in this exercise.

Tools needed: rounding hammer, tongs, drift, head stamp, pritchel and clipping hammer. (Picture 1)

Step 1: Mark steel 1/16 off centre making the longest side the lateral side then get a nice even heat along the length of the stock.
HEAT 1


Pictures 1 & 2

Step 2: Holding the stock on the face of the anvil start the toe bend (picture 2) beginning and finishing 2/3rds from the centre of the stock keeping the stock close to the anvil face. The steel should then work around your hammer.

Step 3: When this is completed (turned to approx 90 degrees) set both sides of the toe on the horn of the anvil corresponding with the toe quarters on a hoof (picture 3).


Pictures 3 & 4

Step 4: Mark along the leading edge of the toe to place the toe nails (picture 4).
HEAT 2

Step 5: Work the heel almost working the steel into itself on both sides bearing in mind the heel of the foot should sit in the centre, be careful not to make the heels too pointed.

Step 6: Turn the branch around the horn remembering to move the stock around the horn towards you. The heel should end up in a position where you can dissect a line from the toe nail through the middle of the heel (shown in picture 9).

Step 7: Punch nail holes with the drift (approx. 1/3 in from the outside edge) bearing in mind the angle of the wall keeping the heel nail slightly forward of the widest part of the foot (shown in picture 9).

Step 8: Forge the bubbles (frogs eyes) out of the shoe over the horn working on both edges of the stock (picture 3).

Step 9: Counter sink the nail holes with the head stamp to accommodate the nail you are using.

Step 10: Pritchel out the nail holes (picture 6).
HEAT 3


Pictures 5 & 6

Repeat steps 5 - 10.

This being the medial branch I usually safe this side with my hammer as I am forging the frogs eyes working heavier on the edge of the ground surface right through to the heel.
HEAT 4

Forming the clip: Heat the toe of the shoe and place a small part of the toe over the edge of the anvil and work the ball pein into the corner of the anvil (picture 7). You will know when you have forged enough when the bubble for the clip forms what looks to be a ski jump type of a shape looking from the ground surface (I wish I had a better way of explaining this). Then draw the clip using the edge of the hammer to get the length into the clip being careful not to make it too thin (picture 8).


Pictures 7 & 8

Now we have the completed shoe. I would like to stress some things as well as give some more tips on this shoe and many others. While making the shoe be sure to keep working the inside of the stock where it has built up thickness from doing the toe bend and turning the branch. This will give you slightly more width to the shoe as well as minimising sole pressure. If done at the right heat (no hotter than dull red) it will add to the appearance of the shoe.

This shoe with practice can be done comfortably in three heats by doing the lateral heel, toe bend, turn branch and punch holes in the first heat. As with any shoe don’t try to rush through it and be conscious of your position at the anvil, do not get into uncomfortable positions. Make sure your tools are right for the job, there is no point in making hard work of it.



Pictures 9 & 10

I trust that our members will get some use from this and the following articles.